3.4 North Wooded Ridges

Key characteristic features

• Prominent elevated plateau of Lower Greensand, with steep horseshoe-shaped escarpment enclosing the Milland Basin.
• Varied, often steeply undulating relief; streams typically flow in deep gullies.
• Dense, mixed woodland predominates, with pastures and rough grazing within clearings and beyond woodland edges.
• Diverse woodland structure: overlapping mosaic of broadleaved species, conifers, commercial plantations and coppice.
• Narrow, often deeply sunken, twisting lanes.
• Isolated farmsteads and localised linear suburban development.
• Deeply enclosed landscape with a strong sense of mystery.

Landform and context

The north wooded ridges landscape is found on the relatively resistant rocks of the Hythe Beds of north-west Sussex. The land rises steadily to the north of the Rother Valley before dropping away abruptly at a steep, deeply indented escarpment slope which curves around to the north, enclosing the Milland Basin. To the north of the Milland Basin, near Haslemere, this escarpment becomes more convoluted and twists sharply around to form a series of ridges with a north-south alignment, separated by deep, linear valleys. The ridge furthest to the east rises to height of 280m at Black Down, the highest point in Sussex and an important regional landmark. The southern escarpment becomes gradually lower towards the east and is broken by narrow river valleys near Lodsworth and Petworth. Landslips have led to a stepped escarpment profile in some areas and at such points the clay vale at the foot of the scarps often has a hummocky relief. The Lower Greensand dip-slope is typically undulating and is deeply dissected by streams, which often flow in ravines.

The relief is completely masked by dense tree cover which extends across the scarp slope and down into the clay vale at the foot of the ridge. Soils are sandy with poor quality acid podsols, which may support heathland, on higher ground.

The north wooded ridges landscape encompasses most of the wooded area, and therefore includes part of the clay vale as well as the Lower Greensand plateau and scarp.

Land use and landscape pattern

The area is predominantly wooded, but the woodland consists of a diverse, patchy interlocking mosaic of different species and woodland structures. There are extensive areas of conifer plantations and mixed woodland but these are interspersed with mixed broadleaved woodlands - mostly an oak-birch-chestnut mix - beech hangers and areas of chestnut and hazel coppice. Many parts of the woodland are ancient semi-natural woodland.

The woodland cover is frequently interrupted by clearings of different shapes and sizes. The majority are small, consisting of roughly grazed paddocks, and are usually associated with groups of isolated cottages. There are also more substantial open areas, such as the farmed ridgetop to the south of Henley, and more recent, geometrically-shaped areas of clear-fell within the commercial softwood plantations.

These open areas also include a wide range of different land uses and landscape patterns. Some, such as Chapel Common and Woolbeding Common, are open heathlands (ref. heathland mosaic) and other areas on the Lower Greensand plateau would have the potential to develop heathland vegetation if the tree cover were cleared and the appropriate seed sources available. Most clearings on the Lower Greensand are rough pastures with fairly acidic grassland. Many are used for grazing horses. Such clearings reveal the undulating relief of the plateau and often contain narrow, winding streams. The fields seem unstructured, with few hedgerows. Most are bounded by wire fencing and have the character of small-holdings. All are completely enclosed by dense woodland cover and often have irregular, indented shapes. Elsewhere open glades contain patches of dense undergrowth and regenerating birch trees. There are also areas of marsh and small ponds are a recurring feature. They are usually associated with springs at the head of streams flowing across the plateau and those emanating from the foot of the greensand escarpment.

On the clay vale, beyond the foot of the greensand escarpment, the woodland clearings tend to have a more structured character, with well developed hedgerows subdividing a patchwork of small fields. Hedgerow oak trees are often a local characteristic. The small, undeveloped valley to the north west of Black Down has a particularly scenic parkland character. This linear valley has wooded upper slopes and sweeping pastures with scattered oak trees on the valley floor. The landscape pattern of other valleys in the area which have a similar landform has been spoiled by dense development, making this one seem particularly hidden and special.

The southern outer edges of the north wooded ridges are often fringed with small fields of rough grazing land on undulating terrain. These fields have a similar character to those within the woodland clearings, except that they are partially unenclosed and are usually bounded on one site by the intensively managed arable fields of the sandy arable farmland. Wherever the woodlands of the greensand dip-slope come right up to the edge of the arable fields there is a strong, bold edge which, as it occurs on relatively elevated ground, is a prominent visual feature in the long northward views from the chalk escarpment.

The boundary between the north wooded ridges landscape and that of the Low Weald in the Milland Basin is less distinct. The Low Weald landscape is characterised by patches of woodland, many of which link with the more extensively wooded areas of the ridge. There is therefore a subtle transition between the two landscapes: the boundary of the north wooded ridges occurs at the edge of the predominantly wooded area.

Settlement

Historically, the settlement pattern of this area is one of scattered, isolated farms and small-holdings associated with forest clearings, together with small groups of cottages. Small, clustered villages, such as Henley and Bexleyhill and hamlets such as Trotton Marsh typically occur along the springline at the foot of the greensand escarpment.

This traditional settlement pattern is intact, although some of the springline villages appear to have shrunken in size. However, recent suburban development has been superimposed on the historic pattern in some parts of the area and is locally a dominant visual influence. Some isolated, larger properties, often associated with stud farming, are fairly well hidden within the woodland, although their presence is felt where gateposts and ornamental planting occur along the woodland roads.

More extensive suburban development has taken place to the north of the area on the outskirts of Haslemere. Here the linear valleys at the foot of the indented escarpment are densely settled and villages on the greensand plateau in this area have been much enlarged. There are also a range of urban fringe pressures such as golf courses, equestrian centres, etc. within expanded woodland clearings.

Subjective response

The twisting sunken lanes, hidden clearings, sudden precipitous slopes and ancient gnarled trees all help to create a very strong sense of mystery. This is a secretive landscape which feels hidden, separate and enclosed. The suburban influence therefore seems particularly intrusive.

The landscape changes rapidly, from coppiced chestnut to stands of pine and ancient oaks, and from undulating pastures to swathes of heathland and glades with marshy ponds. There are many contrasts and surprises; these woodlands are a disorientating maze of lanes, tracks and narrow sunken paths and seem undiscovered, remote and very special.

Sensitivity to change

This landscape is densely wooded and, like the heathland mosaic, is in a constant state of flux as different elements within the woodland mosaic evolve at different rates. Change is inevitable as areas of woodland, particularly those planted for commercial forestry, are felled, replanted, coppiced, thinned etc.

Small-scale developments are easily screened by the surrounding woodlands and, on a superficial level, the landscape of the north wooded ridges would seem well-suited to absorbing built development and changing land use patterns without obvious detrimental effect. However, one of the most important qualities of this landscape is also particularly vulnerable to such forms of change. The north wooded ridges have a very special sense of remoteness and mystery which is easily eroded by piecemeal development. The existing scattered, rather suburban properties and, in particular, the more extensive urban development within the valleys on the fringes of Haslemere, provide a clear example of the pressures for suburbanisation and the resultant degradation of landscape character.

In addition, there is a need to keep the various elements of the woodland mosaic in balance and this may mean paying particular attention to those elements which require intensive management, such as areas of coppice, heathland and acid grassland, together with the conservation of special features such as stands of ancient trees, springs, ponds and the deeply sunken lanes which are typical of the area. Invasive species, such as rhododendron and Japanese Knotweed are particularly difficult to control and need constant attention if they are to be kept in check.

On a larger scale, the skylines of the greensand escarpment are particularly vulnerable to visually insensitive forestry management practices and their wooded character should be carefully maintained.

Key issues for landscape management

Woodland mosaic

• Encourage an interlocking, diverse mosaic of different landscapes types with bold variations in scale. The elements of the mosaic should have a patchy character, with irregular indented edges. The aim should be to create a range of degrees of enclosure, from open clearings to partially wooded areas of transitional wood pasture. Densely wooded areas, including commercial forestry plantations are also important components of the landscape mosaic.
• Maintain overall woodland cover. In particular avoid fragmented woodland on skylines; replanting may be necessary following storm damage in some key locations. Views from the surrounding lowland areas should be considered in planning all felling schemes which might affect elevated parts of the forest.
• The edges of the different landscape elements in the mosaic should be complex and varied according to the local character and scale of the landscape. Irregular patchy edges with scattered individual trees are appropriate in finely grained parts of the mosaic, while areas with a larger scale should have bold, distinctive shapes.
• Design areas of clear fell so as to open up views to landmarks such as Black Down and, where possible, to allow views to the Low Weald farmland landscape. Avoid hard, straight edges in forestry coupes and retain groups of free-standing trees to soften the edge structure and enhance local views. Edges of clear fell areas should follow the landform.
• Special management programmes may be necessary to retain important woodland stands such as beech or oak hangers on the steep greensand scarps.
• Give priority to the continued protection and management of areas of ancient semi-natural woodland. Encourage replanting with broadleaved species where this would maintain the sense of place.
• Identify features with important visual, historic or cultural interest, e.g. stands of gnarled trees, ancient earthbanks, historic minepit sites, interesting landforms, ponds, etc and design footpath routes and woodland clearings to create views to some of these points.
• Identify potential viewpoints where roads or footpaths cross the edge of the escarpment and carefully open up woodland to allow views at these points. Provide small pull-off car parking areas where possible.
• Control spread of invasive species e.g. rhododendron, Japanese knotweed. Monitor occurrence of sycamore to ensure it does not threaten local species diversity.
• Encourage dense stands of mixed woodland towards the urban fringes of Haslemere and in other areas where suburban development has a strong visual influence.
• Encourage a wide range of woodland management patterns, including coppicing, thinning, woodpasture, etc.
• Encourage woodland edge management to promote visual and ecological diversity.

Open areas

• Tree planting to enhance local settlements, screen visually intrusive development and provide occasional visual accents.
• Conserve and manage existing hedgerow network and hedgerow oak trees in pastures on clay vale.
• Any new planting beside streams and on the fringes of ponds should be carefully located in small groups so as to draw attention to these important landscape features rather than screen them.
• Encourage conversion of arable land to permanent pasture to retain landscape character and prevent loss of acidic grassland habitat.

Heathland

• Conserve and manage existing heathland areas.
• Using historic evidence and vegetation surveys, assess potential for creating new, interconnected heathlands, particularly in areas currently under conifer plantations. Visual criteria are important in planning the character and scale of initial tree clearance programmes in such areas.
• Retain areas of scattered gorse scrub - in heathlands or grassland clearings - for visual and ecological interest.
• Encourage heathland management on golf courses and in association with other recreational facilities in urban fringe areas.

Lanes

• Conserve the special character of the deeply sunken lanes - selective coppicing and planting as necessary. In particular protect from vehicular erosion.

Priorities for action

• Maintain overall woodland cover, but encourage a particularly diverse, patchy mosaic of wooded and open landscapes, with a variety of scale and visual structure.
• Avoid hard, straight woodland edges.
• Investigate the potential for creating more extensive heathland areas.
• Identify opportunities for creating new views, from the greensand slopes to surrounding lowlands and also on a smaller scale, enhancing local characterful features within the more hidden landscapes of the woodland mosaic.

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